Deià: Mallorca’s Mountain-Coast Village That’s a Creative’s Paradise

10 min readJun 10, 2023

Welcome to the enchanting world of Deià, a coastal village on Mallorca’s northwest coast that’s as charming as it is captivating. Nestled at the foot of the Teix mountain and offering breathtaking views of the Mediterranean, Deià has long been a sanctuary for renowned artists, writers, and creatives, including the celebrated writer Robert Graves. The rugged allure of Deià even inspired acclaimed author Helen Walsh’s 2014 book, The Lemon Grove. As one of the most populated areas of the Serra de Tramuntana, Deià is a testament to the harmonious fusion of nature, culture, and tradition, earning it a spot as a World Heritage Site. Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your visit to Mallorca’s most cherished mountain village.

Deià: A Journey Through Time

The steep valley that houses Deià has been a hub of human activity since prehistoric times, with early settlers making their homes in the hillside caves, hunting local game, and drinking from the abundant natural springs. In the eighth century, Arab rule introduced a sophisticated drainage and irrigation system that’s still in use today and gave the village its name, derived from ‘ad daia’, meaning hamlet.

Fast forward to the 1200s, and three Roman-Catholic monasteries were built in and around Deià: Ca l’Abat, Son Rul.lan, and Miramar. The symbols of the former are seen today on Deià’s shield, and Miramar was the location of a missionary school founded by famed philosopher Ramón Llull, aimed at converting North African Muslims to Christianity.

In 1867, Archduke Lluis Salvador of Austria arrived in Mallorca with the intention of producing an encyclopedia on the Balearic islands. He was so taken by the area of Deià and Valldemossa that he bought much property and land here, banning tree felling and hunting within his grounds in an attempt at conservation. While living at Miramar, Archduke Salvador created many paths and lookout areas, making for wonderful walking and hiking.

English poet and novelist Robert Graves first moved to Deià in the 1930s, seeking respite after the nerve-shattering effects of the Great War, and finding love with American poet Laura Riding. A formidable literary pair, they left for England at the start of the Spanish Civil War; Robert returning after World War II, having a family home here until he died in 1985. Famous visitors who came to stay included Sir Alec Guinness, Peter Ustinov and Hollywood actress Ava Gardner. Robert Graves’ home, Can Alluny, is now an interesting museum.

Olive cultivation was key to Deià’s prosperity during periods of Islamic and Roman occupation, in addition to the cultivation of citrus fruits, fishing and farming. Now, the village and its inhabitants have added art, crafts and a relaxed style of tourism to the agricultural economy, with great success.

Deià’s Must-See Attractions

Much of Deià’s appeal lies in its laid-back vibe and blissful surroundings, making a stay here highly conducive to rest and relaxation amidst some very impressive views of the blue sea and stunning mountains. Visitors tend to opt for pleasurable eating and drinking experiences, with some enjoyable walks or hikes, and trips to Deià ’s small but very pretty cala. The road through Deià is the main coast road and can be very busy, and parking in the village can be difficult during the summer, when the small public car park is often full. To the right of this road,the Belmond Hotel Residencia is a haven of peace (with its own gated car park). Formerly owned by Sir Richard Branson, over the years it has attracted many famous guests: Princess Diana holidayed here, and singer Robbie Williams and his wife enjoyed a pre-wedding stay in the hotel’s tranquil setting.

Things to Do in Deià

Deià is a treasure trove of small boutiques, galleries, and shops, and boasts plenty of places to eat and drink — including the Michelin-starred Es Racó d’Es Teix. It’s worth taking time to stroll around, admiring the sympathetically restored old stone houses nestling in narrow alleys. Foodies will love the village’s little central grocery store Es Forn, crammed to the rafters with local produce and gourmet treats. Walk up to the church graveyard and you’ll find the simple headstone marking Robert Graves’ final resting place, appropriately set in the village he loved. To explore the interesting, unconventional life of the emblematic English war poet, take a trip to, the museum and former home which preserves his memory.

Upon first glance, you’d be forgiven for thinking Deià is a characteristically quiet, unhappening place, given the permeating sense of peace. However, the village does have its moments, most notably at the eternally popular Café Sa Fonda. Located a few doors away from the pharmacy, up a flight of stone steps, this simple bar is the place to go for impromptu live music action, and a is favourite haunt of locals and visiting bohemian types.

Deià ’s rich landscapes make it a rewarding place to go walking. Ranging from easy to more challenging, well-established hiking routes include Miramar monastery, and Sa Foradada, a picturesque peninsula with a spectacular lookout point. Both are accessed off the Deià — Valldemossa road; more information can be obtained from Deià’s town hall.

Many people combine the hike to Sa Foradada with a visit to the house of Son Marroig. Once belonging to Archduke Lluis Salvador, this superbly placed retreat is now an understated museum housing artefacts from his life.

Those interested in the prehistory of the Balearics will make some interesting discoveries at the Deià Archeological Museum and Research centre. Housed in one of the oldest buildings in the village, a converted mill, the museum was founded in the sixties by the American archaeologist and painter William Waldren.

Enjoy a game of tennis to a backdrop of the beautiful Med at the municipal tennis court, Es Verger, or at Hotel La Residencia, which has two courts available for walk-ins to book. Players wishing to improve their game can book popular resident coach Shayne Tabb.

In the warmer months, it is also worth going for afternoon tea at Restaurant Miró at Belmond La Residencia, which includes freshly-baked scones, home-made pastries and limited-edition tea. Against a beautiful mountainous backdrop, guests can relax as they soak up Deia’s charming scenery. Those looking for added indulgence can choose to go the extra mile with flutes of champagne — the perfect way to spend a special birthday or anniversary.

Deià Bay

A 30-minute stroll from the village takes you down to Cala Deià — a small rocky cove with a shingle beach, and two beach restaurants known for their fish. You can also drive down, taking the signposted route from the main road north out of the village. Deià’s other beach, Llucalri, lying two miles away, is reachable only via foot or boat. Here you’llfind natural mud baths — and perhaps the odd naturist.

Where to Stay in Deià

Hotel Belmond La Residencia, once owned by Richard Branson and now part of the prestigious Belmond group (formerly Orient Express), regularly appears in the ‘best hotels in the world’ lists, and for good reason. Known for providing gracious hospitality in a magical setting, it’s a little piece of Mallorcan paradise, with a great spa, and a fine restaurant. A favourite haunt of Hollywood A listers, models, and musicians, expect to see quite a pedigree of visitors lounging by the pool.

S’ Hotel d’Es Puig, located in the centre of the village, offers a calm, traditional atmosphere full of charming touches. You can’t help but be enchanted by the gorgeous mountain views, simple, tasteful décor, and serene atmosphere.

Perched on a hill with breathtaking views of Cala Deià, Sa Pedrissa is an adult-only hotel with nine rooms. This tastefully renovated 17th-century estate, which belonged to an Austrian duke in the 19th century before its current incarnation as a luxury hotel, boasts immaculately-kept grounds.

Slightly outside the village is Es Molí Hotel, with lovely tranquil stepped gardens above Deià, providing plenty of shady areas to rest. Guests can access the secluded rock beach at La Muleta courtesy of the hotel’s private shuttle service.

Where to Eat in Deià

One of a handful of Michelin-starred restaurants on the island, Es Raco d’es Teix promises a very special dining experience in a cosily romantic setting. Situated up a steep hill from the main street, Es Raco offers high-end Mallorcan cuisine created with care and ingenuity by German chef Josef Sauerschell.

Just a stone’s throw away on the central road through the village, another German chef is working his culinary magic. Sebastian Pasch of much-loved restaurant, Sebastian has established a firm reputation for mouthwatering Mediterranean dishes infused with a dash of Asian flavour. A candlelit meal in this former stable dining room is one of the highlights of a trip to Deià for a large loyal clientele.

Within the beautiful, olive-twisted grounds of the five-star La Residencia, A Belmond Hotel are two restaurants: El Olivo and Restaurante Miró. Both are equally as enchanting but it is the latter that scores for a note-worthy lunch. Diners can sit back and make the most of Deià’s dramatic scenery which can be enjoyed from the hotel’s cobbled terrace.

For many, no visit to Deià is complete without a trip down to rustic restaurant C’as Patro March, overlooking the clear blue waters of the cala. This unpretentious place draws quite a crowd of visitors for its deliciously fresh fish and tapas dishes, served in an atmosphere of informality to the sound of gently lapping waves.

For some seriously jaw-dropping views, head to Mirador de Sa Foradada restaurant at Son Marroig, on the coast road between Deià and Valldemossa. Perched atop a cliff overlooking the Sa Foradada peninsula, sunsets here are unforgettable.

Back in the heart of the village, El Barrigon Xelini does a wide selection of delicious tapas, in a laid-back, traditional atmosphere, with a pleasant terrace. A long running Deià restaurant with much character, this place has had its share of famous visitors over the years, proudly displayed in the many photos adorning its old stone walls.

Events in Deià

The village gives its name to an important annual cultural event. The Deià International Music Festival takes place hereevery summer (usually May to September), with many concerts taking place at Son Marroig, between Deià and Valldemossa. Having grown surely and steadily since its inception, when a group of amateur and professional musicians got together to play concerts at the local church, the festival now plays host to an impressive array of international classical orchestras and musicians.

If it’s early autumn and you’re in Deià then you won’t want to miss the annual Deià Art Festival. A weekend event that covers talks and exhibitions in the fields of art, literature and music. The Writers Walk is a particular highlight where visitors can listen to 10 writers across 10 secret locations around the village.

Related: Free activities in Palma

Living in Deià

Opt to purchase property in Deià and you’ll have some illustrious neighbours, including Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber, Michael Douglas and PR guru Lynne Franks. Property prices are high in this desirable location. Around half of the village’s 850-strong population are expats, amongst them the descendants of the bohemian group of artists and writers who first discovered Deià for themselves.

Owners can rest easy knowing their precious village is protected from dramatic change due to the Tramuntana’s UNESCO World Heritage Site status, though this was never the place for unsightly development. Deià’s to-die-for views come not without their price, though, with winter temperatures feeling much cooler in the mountains than elsewhere on the island, and reports of snow in the Serra not uncommon. Indeed, in past times, snow falling here was preserved in ice blocks and used for medicinal purposes throughout the year.

Day trips to cosmopolitan Palma and the hustle-bustle of the city are fairly easy, with the journey taking some 50 minutes without tourist traffic, though caution is wise along the narrow, winding road to Valldemossa, especially in wet conditions.

Heavenly restored farmhouses, classic ochre-hued village homes, and beautifully-presented renovated villas are some of the types of property on offer this once-humble village that is now something of a millionaire hideaway. However, Deià has kept its sense of local charm, lacking glitz and any hint of vulgarity.

Surrounding areas of Deià

Back towards Palma, the beautiful town of Valldemossa provides the perfect strolling experience with its narrow, cobbled, scenic streets lined with cafés and small boutiques. A visit to the town’s Real Cartuja monastery is a must.

The winding coast road down to Sóller from Deià, with its sumptuous glimpses of the sea, is a rally car driver’s dream, and an experience in itself. Visit characterful Sóller town, and you’ll discover many spots of interest, such as art exhibits, a natural science museum, and an abundant botanic garden.

With the recent fresh addition of the uber-luxurious, five-star Jumeirah Port Soller Hotel & Spa, Port de Sóller has upped its game in recent years, and now attracts a super chic crowd drawn to its picturesque rounded bay and fine white sands.