Puerto Pollensa: Unveiling the Charm of Northern Mallorca

10 min readJun 11, 2023

The Allure of Port de Pollensa

Imagine a place that once sparked the creativity of Agatha Christie, a place that continues to draw vacationers from all corners of the globe. This is Port de Pollensa, a resort nestled in northern Mallorca, backed by majestic mountains and offering more than just a typical beach holiday.

Puerto Pollensa, a British favourite, is a magnet for repeat visitors. The island’s strict building regulations ensure an unspoiled landscape, with sprawling sandy beaches fringed by pine and palm trees, a diverse selection of cafes and restaurants, and top-notch hotels.

What was once a humble fishing port has evolved into a captivating, family-oriented resort with a fascinating history. Let’s dive into everything you need to know to make the most of your stay in this cherished port town.

A Journey Through Time

During the Spanish Civil War, Port de Pollensa’s lighthouse transformed into a military base under General Franco’s orders. From here, German seaplanes took flight, most notably launching an attack on Guernica in Northern Spain on April 26, 1937. This assault, one of the first on a civilian population by a modern air force, resulted in hundreds of civilian casualties, shocking the world and inspiring Pablo Picasso’s anti-war painting.

Today, a Spanish military airbase occupies the same site, and seaplanes are a common sight, much to the delight of beach-going children. However, curiosity seekers are advised to keep their distance from the military base due to high security measures.

In the early 20th century, affluent families from Madrid and Palma constructed stunning retreats along the bay stretch known as the Pine Walk. For a taste of vintage glamour, venture 10km beyond the town to the iconic Hotel Formentor. Nestled in the natural paradise of the Formentor peninsula, this hotel has hosted a star-studded guest list, including Grace Kelly and Prince Ranier, Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Winston Churchill, and Charlie Chaplin.

Must-See Attractions

Port de Pollensa, also spelled ‘Puerto Pollensa’, is a British favourite for holidays and second homes. It boasts excellent facilities, beautiful beaches, and a plethora of water sports opportunities.

Experience a breathtaking sunset from the old watchtower’s cliff-top viewpoint en route to Cap d’Formentor. The winding drive isn’t for the faint-hearted, but the tranquil, sweeping bay views are well worth the journey.

Cycling has become a significant part of Mallorca’s tourism industry, and Port de Pollensa serves as a year-round hub. The Sky team often chooses this area for their pre-season camps, and the town has become a major base for cyclists eager to explore the diverse northern routes.

Many groups choose to stay at the well-equipped Aparthotel Duva, which caters perfectly to its sporty guests. Bike hire is straightforward, with several hire shops open throughout the seasons.

Things to Do in Port de Pollensa

Take a leisurely stroll along the enchanting Pine Walk, enjoying superb bay views. Agatha Christie did the same in the 1930s, drawing inspiration for her story ‘Problems at Pollensa Bay’.

For hiking enthusiasts, the Boquer Valley walk offers extraordinary scenery leading to a secluded cove. If you’re lucky, you might spot rare birds such as black vultures and Eleonora’s falcons.

The Dry Stone Route GR-221 (or ‘Ruta de Pedra en Sec’ in Catalan) is a challenging but beautiful hike to the former Lluc monastery, nestled in the Tramuntana mountains. The long route rewards you with fantastic views, stunning landscapes, and untouched nature.

While many of Port de Pollensa’s seafront shops cater to holidaymakers, the backstreets also offer hidden gems. The Allen Graham Charity 4 Kids shop on Calle Medico Llopis, a bustling spot, boasts a vast collection of second-hand English and German books.

Agata, a specialist crystal shop on the main promenade, offers an intriguing collection of gems and stones sourced from Brazilian mines.

Golf enthusiasts can enjoy Golf Pollensa, a nine-hole course on the main Palma road. Richard Barnard, the director and a long-time resident, is a treasure trove of information about golfing on the island. Further afield, the 18-hole Alcanada, near Alcúdia, offers stunning views and a challenging, top-tier course.

Simply Pilates, run by friendly English expat Rachel Shuckburgh, is a small studio on Calle Roger de Flor offering fun yet effective classes. Rachel also provides private classes in many of the area’s hotels.

The calm, shallow waters around Pollensa bay are perfect for paddleboarding. Bellini SUP Centre, on Carrer Metge Llopis, organises discovery, adventure, and sunset paddle tours, with the option of renting GoPro cameras to capture your experience.

Kitesurfing is also popular, and Pollensa is an excellent place to learn. Kite Mallorca and Watersports Mallorca will equip you with everything you need to participate in this fast, fun, and addictive sport. The vibrant kites are a constant sight from the beach, in the direction of Alcúdia.

A boat charter adds an exciting dimension to a holiday in the port, allowing you to explore hidden parts of the coastline and enjoy refreshing sea breezes while topping up your tan. You’ll find North Mallorca Charters located right in front of Stay restaurant, at the marina. The aspiring luxury yacht owner will discover some seriously tempting buys at the Fairline dealership in the port, with some spectacular sale models on show.

The long, smooth promenade next to Port de Pollensa’s sands is perfect for cycling, walking, or rollerblading, hence many a small child can be seen getting to grips with learning to ride their bike.

The end of the beach next to the pine walk with its ample shade makes a wonderful setting for workshops in stone sculpture run by Silvia Felix. Over three, four or five days, attendees learn how to shape their own creation from soft soapstone. Part of a course focusing on personal empowerment and growth, the special open-air workshops also include daily yoga sessions and one-to-one coaching.

While the port is not renowned for its nightlife, it’s part of its family-friendly appeal. However, Tolo’s restaurant sees some lively action on its party nights, when the owner hires bands and musicians to entertain diners, with the drinks flowing into the early hours.

Pollensa Bay & Beach

The Bay of Pollensa beaches, each unique, all enjoy superb views. In the resort itself, the long sandy Llenaire beach offers a variety of water sports. Further south is Can Cullerassa beach — where you’ll find a tree to shelter beneath and a stretch of sand to call your own, but too much posidonia for pleasant bathing.

North of the marina and backed by the Pine Walk, Albercutx beach is really a string of tiny sandy beaches — where you’re only a step or two from the edge of the clear shallow water. A short drive from Port de Pollensa you will find the pine-clad Formentor beach in a beautiful cove, with mountain views and facilities (including those of the hotel) to hand. Further along the peninsula, the small Cala en Feliu, Cala Murta, and Cala en Gossalba are more challenging to reach, but rewarding in their tranquility.

Related: Port de Pollensa Beach

Dining in Port de Pollensa

Port de Pollensa is a culinary hotspot with numerous restaurants, cafés, and bars, catering to all tastes and budgets, and some offering a memorable dining experience.

At the marina’s water’s edge, you’ll find Stay — open all day, every day of the year, for anything from a coffee to a delicious dinner — and La Lonja, a modern restaurant where you can savour excellent fish dishes.

Tolo’s restaurant, a hit among the cycling community, including Sir Bradley Wiggins himself, proudly displays his distinctive yellow Sky team shirt and his winning 2012 bike. The menu is diverse, from authentic paella, steaks, and fresh seafood, to great pizzas, succulent chicken brochettes, and huge vibrant salad plates, all representing excellent value.

For ambient music, smart service, and great people watching, make your way to Cappuccino Grand Café.

Accommodation in Port de Pollensa

The first hotel in Port de Pollensa, Hotel Miramar, established in 1912, is an icon in the north of the island. In the 20’s, it was popular with the artistic elite of the day, who used it as a Mallorcan meeting point, and in the 30’s, Italian seaplane company Ala Litoria SPA housed their offices within its walls. The hotel lobby displays some charming images of the port as it was in the early part of the last century, before the masses came.

The Hotel Illa d’Or still retains legendary status owing to having been famous novelist Agatha Christie’s hotel of choice. Immortalised in one of her works as the hotel Pino d’Or, she settled in to write amongst the comfortable interior, becoming known as ‘the writer’ by staff. The hotel remains a fine place to make a stay.

The new sport hotel Villaconcha, situated behind the local police station, is the latest offering from the Hoposa group. It features all manner of facilities for the amateur to advanced triathlete, including four swimming pools, a fitness centre, spa, and a biomechanics centre.

For something simple, Pension Bellavista is a cheery B&B with a warm, welcoming atmosphere, and a pretty fig-tree shaded courtyard, a very pleasant setting for enjoying its vegan-vegetarian cuisine, and healthy breakfasts.

The characterful Hotel Sis Pins is another charming Pine Walk stay. Breakfast is served out on the lovely sun terrace, to the sound of gentle waves lapping at the shoreline.

Events in Port de Pollensa

A whole eight days in July are dedicated to the Festes de la Verge del Carme (Virgin de Carmen), the patron saint of seafarers and fishermen. Held on the closest Sunday to 16 July, the closing party is not to be missed. At midnight, the beach at La Gola is the location for a stunning firework display, and is preceded by processions and flotillas streaming through town.

The carnival week sees colourful parades (known as Rues o Ruetes) and fancy-dress parties take over the port.

Related: Free activities in Palma

Living in Port de Pollensa

With its sense of timeless charm, Port de Pollensa is the sort of place families and couples return to faithfully, year after year. Indeed, many — particularly the British — like it so much, they choose to buy second homes here, or even make it their main residence. There is a sense of comfort and safety here which makes it an attractive area for raising children.

The sales market in the north of the island stays robust, with prices for apartments remaining relatively stable, and agents seeing an increased demand for quality rural properties. The serene area of Boquer boasts a selection of modern penthouses, while the Bellres guard complex is a group of exclusively designed residential homes built to the highest specifications, set amidst extensive gardens.

The Pine Walk undoubtedly tops the list of desirable locations to purchase a holiday home, with property prices reflecting this.

Some years ago, efforts were made to open a British school in the Pollensa area, a venture which wasn’t eventually fulfilled. However, those looking for international education may consider the well-renowned school The Academy in Marratxí, accessible via the school bus which services the north of the island.

There are two Spanish state schools in the port, both of which encompass a very wide mix of nationalities, reflecting the diverse variety of residents in the town. Parents will find no shortage of after-school activities to keep their children busy both in the port and old town of Pollensa, with all kinds of sporting and hobby clubs available.

The contrast between the hectic summer season and the quiet winter period is huge in Port de Pollensa. However, many year-round residents love the peaceful off season, when they can truly claim back their town from the tourists! Aside from the obvious locales of the Pine Walk and the many holiday developments, there are parts of the port catering to long-term residents, most notably the pretty suburban area of Llenaire.

Exploring the Surroundings of Port de Pollensa

While in the Puerto Pollensa area, it’s worth going to see Cap de Formentor, the ancient walled city of Alcúdia, the attractive resort of Cala San Vicente, and of course, Pollensa old town.

A special highlight are the remains of the ancient Roman city of Pollentia (or ‘the mighty’ in English) near Alcúdia, which was most likely founded around 70 BC. A trip here is a fascinating experience for anyone interested in Mallorcan culture and history. You can visit the old town, the theatre and the old village centre, the Roman Forum.

Built by Italian engineer Antonio Parietti, the 13.5 km winding road that runs between Port de Pollensa and Formentor commands astounding views at every turn. Away from the port, you’ll discover a rugged wilderness of great natural beauty. On a clear day, you might even see Menorca, some 40km in the distance.

Port de Pollensa is the starting point for several well-advertised coach excursions to other parts of Mallorca. If you’re travelling independently, the Fundacion Yannick and Ben Jacober’s Sa Bassa Blanca museum is a must. Set deep in the countryside, the foundation is signposted from Alcúdia old town: on arrival you’ll find a sculpture park, rose garden, and a remarkable gallery of portraits of children from the 16th-19th centuries.

The area around Port de Pollensa is also a dream for ornithologists and great for bird watching. Birdwatchers should be able to while away some happy hours amid the 150 hectares of lakes, reed beds and canals of the Albufera Nature Reserve, one of Europe’s finest wetlands, or at La Gola Ornithological Tourism Centre, in the resort. Other places that are particularly suitable for birdwatching tourism (Avitourism) are the Bay of Pollensa, Formentor, The Boquer Valley, the Cami Vell de Lluc, and the Cala Sant Vincenç.

We hope you have found this article about the Puerto Pollensa useful and that you have many memorable stays in Mallorca as a result of our recommendations. We are always pleased to hear from you, so do send us your feedback here. Enjoy Mallorca!