Serra de Tramuntana: A Hidden Gem on Mallorca’s Northwest Coast

11 min readJun 17, 2023

Imagine a place where the mountains meet the sea, where charming villages nestle in valleys, and where the air is filled with the scent of olive groves. Welcome to Serra de Tramuntana, a mountain range that stretches along the northwest coast of Mallorca, from Port Andratx to Cap Formentor. This 90-kilometer stretch of natural beauty is home to Puig Major, the island’s highest peak, and a myriad of quaint hamlets that are as charming as they are picturesque. In 2011, UNESCO recognized the region’s unique terraced landscape and intricate water supply systems, awarding it World Heritage Site status.

A Playground for Outdoor Enthusiasts

Serra de Tramuntana is a paradise for those who love the great outdoors. Its majestic mountains, cliffs, forests, coves, and beaches are a magnet for nature lovers and sports enthusiasts from around the world. The region’s stunning surroundings have inspired countless artists and served as a serene retreat for celebrities seeking tranquility. International residents, particularly from Germany, Scandinavia, Austria, Switzerland, and England, are drawn to the region’s authentic Mallorcan feel and unparalleled scenery. They often choose to settle in the popular towns of Sóller, Deià, Valldemossa, and Pollensa.

Cycling in Serra de Tramuntana: A Journey of Discovery

The Serra de Tramuntana offers cyclists a perfect blend of breathtaking scenery, excellent road conditions, and a healthy dose of challenging yet manageable hills. With a plethora of routes to choose from, there’s something to suit every cyclist, whether you’re in the mood for a leisurely ride or a challenging climb.

Related: Bicycle rental in Mallorca

Puerto Pollensa to Cap Formentor: A Scenic 35km Round Trip

This route takes cyclists from Puerto Pollensa to the northernmost point of Mallorca, alongside the ocean. The route is filled with hills and wind, but the road is smooth. The Cap Formentor lighthouse, known as the Mallorcan Finisterre, offers stunning views that have inspired many artists. This ride consistently ranks among the top 20 cycling routes in the world.

Port Soller to Valldemossa via Col de Sóller: A 70km Round Trip

This route offers picture-perfect scenery that more than makes up for the effort required on the challenging Coll de Sóller climb. With over 50 hairpin bends, both the ascent and descent are unforgettable. Take a break in beautiful Valldemossa for a coffee, and enjoy a leisurely lunch overlooking the sheltered harbor in Port Sóller on your return.

Andratx to Port Pollensa: A 115km Journey

Regarded as one of the world’s best rides, the journey from Andratx to Puerto Pollensa has it all. Pedal through quaint, picturesque villages, past terraces of century-old olive groves, rustic villas, rugged mountain landscapes, forests, and a crystalline coastline. Tackle Puig Major, the island’s longest and highest climb, and stop to refuel at the many charming village cafes along the way.

Sa Calobra: A 9.5km Challenge

The famous Sa Calobra, a 9.5km ascent known as the island’s hardest climb, offers brave cyclists Mallorca’s most spectacular scenery. Start near Sa Calobra beach and work your way up to the top of Coll dels Reis, cycling past stunning rock arches and mountain ranges. The first kilometer is relatively relaxed, but the incline soon increases to 6–8%. The final three kilometers of the climb are among the steepest and most exposed, so be prepared for strong winds!

Immersing in the Serra de Tramuntana Experience

A perfect weekend in the region could easily be spent exploring its picturesque towns and villages, such as Santa Maria del Camí, Esporles, or Fornalutx (often referred to as ‘Spain’s prettiest village’). However, as the Serra de Tramuntana is synonymous with outdoor adventure, an idyllic day must include a good chunk of time spent in nature.

A perfect day might start with a café con leche with friends at one of the promenade cafes in Port Sóller. Before the sun gets too high, embark on a hike such as the one to Cala Tuent, which will take around 5.5 hours. Marvel at the terrain along old roads, past terraced valleys, ancient olive trees, and historic farmhouses. Navigate the descent to Balitx d’Avall, a farm surrounded by olive, orange, lemon, oak, and pine trees, and refresh yourself with a freshly squeezed orange juice from the estate. A steep ascent out of the valley gets the blood pumping but rewards you with breathtaking views as you continue along the coastline until the secluded pebble beach of Cala Tuent comes into view. Stop to cool off and relax in the clear water at this quiet cala favored by locals due to its off-the-beaten-path location, unlike the neighboring hotspots of Cala Sa Calobra and Torrent de Pareis.

For a delicious and well-deserved lunch, head up to Es Vergeret restaurant where you can view the sparkling cove from above while enjoying the freshest seafood, fantastic paella, and traditional Mallorcan dishes, all accompanied by a local drink or sangria. With a full belly, opt for the ferry boat from the cala back to Port Sóller, and take in the views of the Tramuntana, this time from the sea. You might even spot the large Osprey hunting for fish or nesting on the cliff face.

Dining in the Serra de Tramuntana

One of the best ways to admire the beauty of the Serra de Tramuntana is from the vantage point of one of the many delightfully rustic restaurants in the region. There are some fantastic spots situated along the hiking trails, offering the perfect pit stop or well-deserved reward after a day of exertion. Famous for its meltingly tender slow-roast lamb shoulder, Es Verger is perched mountainside on Puig de Alaró. Hike up to Alaró Castle beforehand to work up a hearty appetite.

Serving up possibly the best paella on the island, Restaurant Sa Foradada is only accessible by boat or foot, but is well worth the effort for the stunning sea views from its elevated position on the cliff-face overlooking the peninsular.

On a mountain path near the Lluc monastery sits Es Guix, a restaurant in a converted hunting lodge with a renowned menu of local dishes. The natural spring water pool adds to the lush, wild setting, beckoning diners for an after-lunch dip.

Along the infamous Dry-Stone Route is the picturesque village of Deià. Walk or drive down to the cala from the village and dine seaside at Ca’s Patro March. Fresh seafood is the order of the day at this open-air restaurant perched on the rocks above the crystal clear cala. Restaurante Sebastian is another one that comes strongly recommended in Deià — owners Sebastian and Patricia have become icons in the village and even have their own book about how the restaurant started!

Béns d’Avall, a family-run restaurantin Sóller, takes inspiration from the Serra de Tramuntana and takes great pride in utilizing regional products. Showcasing Balearic cuisine since 1971, this restaurant offers spectacular terrace views and exceptional food and service. Although the price point is a bit higher than other casual Serra de Tramuntana spots, the experience they deliver is worth every penny.

Accommodations in the Serra de Tramuntana

World-class luxury and service make the Jumeirah Port Soller one of the best hotels on Mallorca. However, it’s the panoramic views of the crescent bay of Sóller stretching across to the majestic Tramuntana mountains that truly set this hotel apart. Take in the vista from a Bali bed by the infinity pool as it seemingly blends into the sea below, or luxuriate with a treatment in the top-notch spa.

Nestled between the mountains and the sea in pretty Deià, Belmond La Residencia occupies a 16th-century building within 35 acres of mature gardens with citrus trees and olive groves. This property perfectly complements the artistic village it resides in, with beautiful antique furnishings, an extensive art collection, and a sculpture garden.

Gran Hotel Son Net, a 17th-century country estate elegantly converted into a boutique hotel, offers luxury and exclusivity to its guests. Overlooking the village of Puigpunyent with the dramatic Serra de Tramuntana as its backdrop, Gran Hotel Son Net offers an escape that feels like a remote hideaway yet is only 20 minutes from the bustling capital of Palma.

Converted from an 18th-century Jesuit monastery, Son Brull has been skillfully redesigned into a contemporary boutique hotel while still retaining its original architectural features. Ideal for a romantic break, this family-owned property sits amidst peaceful natural surroundings in the foothills of the Tramuntana mountains, not far from the charming ancient town of Pollensa.

As the only hotel in Formentor, A Royal Hideaway Hotel is arguably the most exclusive place to stay in Mallorca. Its beautiful location with encircling Mediterranean woodland has attracted celebrities from all over the globe since the 1920s, including the Dalai Lama and Audrey Hepburn. If you’re looking for the utmost privacy, this is the hotel to choose. Its direct access to Formentor Beach and thick coverage of Tramuntana pines provides a secluded place to get away from it all.

Real Estate in the Serra de Tramuntana

From the southwest to the northeast, every town, village, and hamlet along the Serra de Tramuntana has a unique and authentic charm with their centuries-old cottages, townhouses, and fincas. While these tiny sleepy villages offer seclusion and breathtaking beauty, international buyers often find the less remote towns more attractive for property investment due to accessibility, types of property available, and a more cosmopolitan community.

Expatriates predominantly gravitate towards the prestigious towns of Deià, Valldemossa, and Sóller in the northwest, Port Andratx in the southwest, and Pollensa and Formentor to the north. These areas offer a degree of exclusivity, making them among the most sought after on the island. They offer luxury properties with sweeping mountain and seascape vistas. As such, these aren’t areas to find a bargain. Deià is the most expensive, with the average house price at €3.5 million. More reasonably priced properties can still be found in Sóller, Pollensa, and their ports, where a small apartment can be picked up for as little as €150,000.

On the winding roads to the outskirts of these towns and villages, you canfind impressive rustic country fincas dispersed along the mountainside. These large standalone properties and estates often have sprawling gardens, or even a vineyard, olive grove, or natural spring on their privileged private sections. Entry prices start in the range of €600,000, right up to €20 million for a grand country manor house.

Working in the Serra de Tramuntana

Living in the Serra de Tramuntana means embracing a slower pace of life and escaping the hustle and bustle. Many expatriates choose this tranquil part of the island as their base to run their businesses remotely, facilitated by good global connectivity and high-speed internet. For those looking to find work in the area, job opportunities arise in the hospitality and tourism sector during the warmer months, mostly in the tourist-driven port towns, as well as Valldemossa and Deià. During winter, employment becomes more challenging, although hiking, cycling, and adventure sports really pick up as the temperatures ease, so those with skills in outdoor leisure pursuits can still capitalize on this type of tourism.

A burgeoning real estate market across the region keeps agents and property-related businesses busy, and those with multiple languages can do well in this sector. The beauty and natural landscape of the Serra de Tramuntana have seen the various villages become increasingly popular with those in the wellbeing industry, running health retreats and holistic events out of private villas and boutique hotels, as well as yoga classes and alternative therapies. Agrotourism, in particular, is on the rise, presenting an opportunity to provide rustic accommodation and back-to-basics hands-on experiences. This could be worth contemplating if you’ve found yourself in a charming country finca with perhaps some land and animals to tend to.

The People of Serra de Tramuntana: Locals and Celebrities

Residents of the Serra de Tramuntana are a mix of locals and expats who are wanting to take a step back and enjoy the authenticity and natural beauty of this region. The scenery and serenity also attract plenty of A-listers and artists, whether it be for a secluded holiday or to set up a more permanent residence.

Michael Douglas has been frequenting the island since the 1980’s, purchasing a luxury estate near Valldemossa, where he spends time every summer with wife, actress Catherine Zeta-Jones. Deià is probably the most popular village among the celebrity set. The Clash’s bassist Paul Simon owns a house there, Sienna Miller is a regular visitor, and friends Alexa Chung and Pixie Geldof can often be spotted around town during the summer. Once owned by English business magnate Sir Richard Branson, La Residencia is the exclusive luxury Deià hotel favored by visiting stars. High profile guests over the years have included Sting, Princess Diana, Pierce Brosnan, Robbie Williams, Paris Hilton, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Kate Moss to name but a few.

Sir Richard went on to purchase property again in the region in 2016, this time the luxury rural estate of Son Bunyola in Esporles, made up of three magnificent villas. Esporles has also played host to Michelle Obama, where she made a palatial finca her holiday base and was spotted hiking around the area and visiting Port de Sóller. Annie Lennox of pop duo the Eurythmics, spends a good portion of the year at her house near Sóller, and further to the north in Pollensa you might see actor Tom Hiddleston holidaying.

Conclusion

Above all, the Serra de Tramuntana offers dramatic natural beauty at every turn, encompassing an ideal mix of mountains, sea, and forest with a wealthof cultural, historical, and gastronomical heritage. Whether cycling, hiking, or enjoying a traditional Mallorcan meal at a rustic cliffside restaurant, the magical landscape views will never grow old. Due to strict building regulations, the properties in the region retain an authentic Mallorcan charm and character. Whether you choose to live in one of the harborside towns or a rural village high in the mountains, purchasing a property here will ensure you are fully immersed in the Mediterranean way of life. The Serra de Tramuntana is more than just a place; it’s a lifestyle, a community, and a haven for those seeking a slice of authentic Mallorca.